Hermes and Dior on the safe side with color

  PARIS - Paris day four of the men's shows had an important message: We are certainly playing tastefully.

Fashion collections at this time of year are often anticipate and celebrate the summer color.

But on Saturday line-up of strong performances, there was a clear emphasis on colors, maintained muted and soft.

Kenzo and Hermès shows subtle palettes featured extensive and inventive, but it was a tonal balance that was the key.

Bright color, prominent in recent seasons, appeared only temporarily: as red spots in the Kris Van Assche Dior Homme show.

Could this mean a return to elegance in men's fashion?

Sunday includes the last day of the week Paris men's shows Pierre Cardin, Lanvin and Paul Smith.

KENZO

Kenzo includes color.

The designers traveled to the jungles of Southeast Asia - a collection of powerful and subtle way back sharply.

"We have been inspired by a trip to Thailand last year," said half of the duo design, Humberto Leon.

To stay off the sidewalk covered with vivid impressions of camouflage, deer-stalker hats and even a harness with canteens hydrated.

"I wanted people a survival kit: everything you need, when they were stranded in the jungle," said Leon.

But flirting with the tropics was only a distant concept.

The real strength was grounded with the show its working groups and subtle tones - use something that few designers have succeeded.

Fitted short-sleeved shirts with long sleeves and pleated pants Asian style deep yellow, blue and orange.

But the color of the clothes' very act failed, not primary: it produces an effect of attention in order to die in a material force exactly matching tone.

The result was rarely pleasant harmony.

She relied on the key philosophy of founder Kenzo Takada: The clothing should be worn.

Flashes of vibrant color palette punctuated by muted.

On their second album in the men's fashion, was Leon and his design partner Carol Lim with flying colors.

HERMES

Hermes, Veronique Nichanian knows how to dress men.

Show home, in a monastery from the 18th Century stone floors, was a terribly elegant affair.

Fortunately - have not been disappointed by the very skillful and colorful display of Nichanian The place has the expectations raised that.

Sexy costume fitting - single-and double-breasted suit - insisted on his shoulders, but remained soft and unangular.

Meanwhile, high-waisted trousers by the 1950s, a very masculine figure created.

Fashion is about looking statements.

Some designers are so busy trying to say something catchy, they forget aesthetics.

It was not the case.

He focused on pure luxury, whether in soft suede, silk or tuxedos to sharp reversals in mohair.

Color, elegance results in a range - earth green, light yellow, beige, red and sweet - it was great, but remained blind and vision.

In case there was some doubt about the credentials of the subject male, sporty details like white sneakers, hoods, zippers and cords at home that it was all sweet, but very manly.

What is the secret to a lasting Hermes - 2011 marks one of the most profitable fashion?

With regard to men's fashion is going Nichanian is simple: "I have no secrets that I love people.".

DIOR HOMME

Dior Homme went on a troop ship on the track position in a game show-it-safe banish the dark and channeled the Royal Navy blue.

On Saturday, the models with slicked back hair, heavy wool blazer adjusted slightly and Prince of Wales set the strict, conservative tone.

In fact, there was nothing revolutionary here.

Designer Kris Van Assche approach follows the philosophy: "If it is not broke do not fix it."

He revised many ideas touted show of last season: marry tailored uniforms and sportswear.

If the purpose of Van Assche to a marketable product has been creating, developing in his gentle way, he succeeded.

"This is my first show where there are no black, blue is the new way to be black," said Van Assche.

The spectacle of the other new element was the key grip: silver buttons, black buttons - all engraved with the arms of Christian Dior.

Dior Homme fitted silhouette short weathered look of this season and extended oversized.

"I noticed the clothes can be equipped and comfortable at the same time," said Van Assche. "It does not make balloon volumes."

As an incredibly thin Sharon Stone has come to give her a kiss.

If you are as influential as Dior, you do not follow trends around.